Culture shock returns

I remember standing on the beach in Nosara last summer during the second week of Spanish lessons and finding that my mind was completely blank. I didn't have the vocabulary to let my mind wander in my new language, but my whole brain was resisting the impulse to return to the familiar flow of English. I would have to pause while writing emails, especially to my bilingual teammates. Was a ready to communicate to them in their Mother tongue? Would I still completely embarrass myself? Was I being weak by sending them the meeting agenda in English and just sandwiching it between my newly learned Spanish salutations?

Six months down the road not a lot has changed. Culture shock is not just about being frustrated by a new language. It is the constant nagging that you might be doing something wrong: Are my shorts too short? Should I smile and wave at a sweet looking old man who says "Hola, amor," or is he being a creep? I don't know.

In the US I'm a pretty social person. I always spend time with friends and I am not intimidated by meeting new people. The isolation that comes from a combination of language and culture barriers tends to wear on me quickly, making me feel like I'm doing something wrong or suddenly failing at something I know I can do. I feel a lot like I did last night while Oscar was giving me a surfing lesson: I was paddling and duck-diving with every bit of power in my body, but a glance back on the beach would always reveal that I was barely staying in place.

When approaching a biological study in a new country, it is tempting to push these kinds of problems aside and focus on my bugs and my books. Fortunately (and unfortunately when I'm having a particularly hard day), everything I do here relies on my social networks: the farmers who let me into their fields, the carpenters who build me insect boxes, the local students who have the best connections for affordable housing. I have been lucky enough to meet a lot of good people who have been helping me out and making things a lot easier.

Times like these I give extra thanks for my Liberal Arts education... for experience travelling in other places that were challenging in different ways... for being taught that communication is one of the most valuable skills...for emails and Skype sessions and phone calls and letters home... for my Puerto Rican brothers that will always translate, even if they tease me for it...and for the fact that Friday is pizza and movie night in our little yellow house on the hill and the movies at least have English captions and the pizza tastes just like home.

Lesson #1 of studying abroad: buy a guitar ASAP.

It might take a couple leaps and bounds to get my blog from Fall 2012 in Idaho to Spring 2013 in Costa Rica. Not only is the physical relocation always a bit of a mind-blower, but I feel like the season of my life has changed almost as much as the scenery.

When I arrived in Costa a few days ago, I got to skip the usual taxi->bus->bus->taxi because I flew into Liberia, a town in the Nicoya Peninsula where I live. My friend/co-worker Oscar picked me up on his way back from a surfing trip. I felt like I was coming home more than going to an exotic location. Oscar and Simon welcomed me with their usual Puerto Rican flair and I've been pretty happy ever since.

The dry season is certainly distinct in Hojancha. Where the mountains used to be dressed in extravagant tropical greenery, there are now patches of dusty brown nudity. The walk to the grocery store used to be hot but manageable... I now find myself considering fashioning a hat out of a shower cap and ice cubes just to ensure survival on the 1/2 mile through blazing sunlight.

Yesterday, Simon and I went to the beach. It was magnificent despite the sunburn that penetrated many layers of 55 SPF. We also did a circuit workout on the beach. No matter how fit you think you are, you will never succeed at a workout with a college athlete in the late morning Costa Rican sunshine after a few weeks of drinking dark beer and catching up on movies.

But here I am! And on Monday we go to the field and start this science business. I can't wait.

Missing my Idahomies already, but it's time to learn more about the Pura Vida!!!

PS did I mention I'm prob renting this adorable house with some students I met?